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While there may not be a renaissance in Australian wine anytime soon here in the States, the Best keep on being Best, if you know what I mean. Assertive enough for your best spicy-sweet ribs or a peppery steak, it’s also lithe enough to play well with less intense items liked grilled chicken breasts, pork chops or dishes with wild mushrooms. Rich on the palate but juicy and lively too, it’s a wonderful rendition of a more cool-climate, complex style of Aussie Shiraz- one that emphasizes finesse over the raw power.
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Dark- actually really gorgeous to look at- the wine gives up whiffs of plums, blackberries and blueberry on the nose with fresh notes of black pepper, black licorice, graphite, cinnamon and violets on a medium-sized frame that finishes long and lovely. These old vines show the cooler, more aromatic side of the Syrah grape with more freshness, elegance and elan. This is not the typical warm-climate Shiraz one might associate with South Australia. The rare and exciting Bin O, in fact, is often spoken of as Victoria’s answer to Penfold’s iconic Grange, albeit at a mere fraction of the Grange’s price but their standard bearer- Bin 1- is nearly as good and a fraction of the price. Best’s Great Western wines have, over their many, many decades, earned the reputation as being among the most elegant and long-lived in Australia. Best’s has been making wines for a very long time- since 1867 in fact- when Henry Best purchased 73 acres in the Victoria township of Great Western and planted the Shiraz vines that would become the trademark for this very unique growing region. And it was very exciting the other day to revisit one of Australia’s most classic wines and discover that the more things change, the more they stay the same. A seriously complex and intense wine, combining raw power and finesse on the prodigiously long palate, piano keys from all parts of the keyboard being played from the opening stanza to the aftertaste, sour cherries and dried herbs, licorice and black pepper soprano to the bass of blackberry, in a coruscating display of daring to be different shiraz.They’ve been shoveling dirt on the Aussie Shiraz category for over a decade now but the fact of the matter is, just because the wines aren’t selling as well in the United States as they used to, it doesn’t mean the best properties in Australia aren’t still making great wine! The classics are, indeed, still the classics.
RAW POWER SHIRAZ SKIN
14% Alc.ĩ7 points, James Halliday, 1/5/17 “From 18-60+yo vines in the Barossa (61%) and Eden Valleys (39%), various ferments, varying levels of whole bunch inclusion, all involving extended skin contact, matured in new and used French hogsheads for 18 months. The palate is richly concentrated with a focused red fruit core surrounded by delicious, supple layered tannins. After a maturation of 18 months the wine was blended, naturally clarified and bottled without finings or filtration.ĭeep in colour with a lifted bouquet of seductive wild berry fruits complemented by spicy dried herb nuances. Each of the fermentations retained varying levels of whole-bunch fruit clusters from 5 to 50%, then after 20-25 days on skins each ferment was pressed into a mix of new and seasoned French oak hogsheads.
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The blend of cooler climate Eden Valley Shiraz (60%) and warmer climate Barossa Valley Shiraz (40%), combine beautifully to enhance the palate structure and aromatics.Īn array of fermentation techniques, were utilised all involving extended skin contact and gentle hand-plunging. This wine is a blend of 20 different individual Shiraz parcels, made from fruit grown from throughout the Barossa. The vineyards of the Greater Barossa are regularly buffeted by cooling Westerly winds creating an ideal temperature range in which to slowly ripen. This time honoured blend is Sons of Eden’s offering to Zephyrus, Greek God of the West Wind, who is often depicted as a horse due to the speed attributed to this majestic animal. Sons of Eden co-owners, Corey Ryan (“cut his teeth” as winemaker at Henschke for 10 yrs) winemaker and Simon Cowham (ex-viticulturist Yalumba) have come up trumps again with this impressive vintage.
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